tai o

Tai O to Tung Chung

tai o eastgreat egret tai o
There's a fairly long (ca 15km) but otherwise easy walk along the northwest coast of Lantau Island, between Tai O and Tung Chung. For roughly two-thirds of the route, it follows a coastline that for the time being is fairly wild - that is, before the Bloody Big Bridge linking Hong Kong, Zhuhai and Macau is built; nearing Tung Chung, the path is close to Hong Kong International Airport, though is mostly still through distinctly rural areas.

Lantau surprises

Lantau is at the mouth of the Pearl River, a location reflected in the identities of those just visible urban areas: Hong Kong Island to the east, Macau across the Pearl River to the west, and Shenzhen in mainland China to the north. Viewed from Ling Wui Shan, Lantau appears completely free from urbanisation, without even towns or villages. Nearby are waterfalls in steep ravines, a temple tucked into a wooded hillside, and even a Chinese style landscaped garden that's reached only by hiking. Walking here when the sky is intense blue, it's easy to agree with Financial Secretary Henry Tang's description of Lantau as, "Hong Kong's biggest and most beautiful island."

Tai O

Arriving at Tai O (大澳), the village on the west coast of Lantau that has been fancifully dubbed the "Venice of Hong Kong", we're expecting to just stroll along through the housing clustered by creeks, then by the mangroves just to the south.

But at the bus stop, there's a lady standing by a map board showing the route of motor boar rides, encouraging us to go for a trip. It costs just HK$20 for a 25-minute ride, which includes a spot of dolphin watching as well as cruising along creeks past stilt houses.

Well, that sounds like fun - so I hand over the money, we clamber into the boat, by fishing boats with Little Egret watching for small fish, the boat soon fills up, and we're off, speeding out into the mouth of the Pearl River.

Tai O resources

Tai O, Lantau

Info from Hong Kong's Great Outdoors

Long-established fishing village,  best known  for houses built on stilts along a tidal creek. There are narrow, pedestrian only streets, with shops and stalls – many selling fresh and dried seafood, as well as pungent shrimp paste – and a small, privately run museum.

Bus 1 from Mui Wo ferry pier, or bus 11 from Tung Chung MTR Station; buses also run from Ngong Ping..

Tai O articles on this site

Tai O, Lantau Island, by boat and Shanks' Pony  

Ng Yuen (龍仔悟園) Lantau

Lung Tsai Ng Yuen (龍仔悟園) is surely one of the most surprising places in Hong Kong's countryside - a Chinese landscaped garden set in the hills of southwest Lantau Island, accessible only by hiking. I've read that it was developed and planted with ornamental trees by the late Mr Woo Quen-sung (this info from Hong Kong Country Parks, by Stella Thrower). Also known as Ng Yuen Garden, it's within the Man Cheung Po SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest).

Though the buildings and zigzag bridge over the carp pond are ageing, Mr Woo's descendants evidently maintain the garden. But, sadly, it's usually closed to the public - though you can enjoy the above view from the dam used to create the pond (signs warn this dam is unsafe; maybe some day it will crumble).

Recently, I was lucky enough to arrive and find the garden was open - so took the chance to wander around, and take photos.

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