I can attest to the disgraceful quality of HK marine environments, even though I have elsewhere suggested that some forms of marine pollution have decreased over the years. Even so, my last trip to Hoi Ha Wan for some snorkelling was a complete waste of time. Zero visibility, litter, nets and black sea urchins were all there was to see. OK I did like the hundreds of mating starfish. So it was that after nearly 25 years of snorkelling in HK, that I cried my first genuine tears of joy. The village beach next to ClearwaterBay (small) Beach was our destination for a bit of lounging on our day off. Someone has cleaned the village and made it quite pleasant. But the main surprise was the water. At 6'1", I stood in shoulder deep water and counted the hairs on my toes. Without a mask on. Then repeatedly cursed my stupidity in not planning the trip and bringing my snorkelling gear, when I swam through clumps of healthy seaweed. Coral washed on the beach suggested better snorkelling further out. My companion even mentioned the fact that someone had been splashing around some 'seafresh' deoderant. No rotting smells at all.