Lantau Island

Tai O to Tung Chung

tai o eastgreat egret tai o
There's a fairly long (ca 15km) but otherwise easy walk along the northwest coast of Lantau Island, between Tai O and Tung Chung. For roughly two-thirds of the route, it follows a coastline that for the time being is fairly wild - that is, before the Bloody Big Bridge linking Hong Kong, Zhuhai and Macau is built; nearing Tung Chung, the path is close to Hong Kong International Airport, though is mostly still through distinctly rural areas.

Shui Hau n Tong Fuk

Just found that a trip to the south Lantau coast at Shui Hau and nearby Tong Fuk makes a grand trip on a fine afternoon, especially on a hot day summer day when a swim seems a good way of cooling off.

Shui Hau

 shui hau

Silver Mine Waterfall

silver mine falls

The Silver Mine Waterfall at Mui Wo, eastern Lantau, is one of the most easily reached of Hong Kong's best waterfalls. It's accessible by strolling gentle trails, passing by the beach, village houses, and through fields and woodland. Like all our waterfalls, it's best just after - or even during - spells of heavy rain.

Nei Lak Shan Trail

There's a new trail starting at Ngong Ping, Lantau Island. The 5-km Nei Lak Shan Country Trail circles round Nei Lak Shan, which at 751 metres is the sixth highest peak in Hong Kong. You can start on the trail in northeast Ngong Ping - just where a trail starts dropping down towards Tung Chung.

The trail is clearly marked by this signpost, from which you climb a little; then reach a junction, where you can choose to walk a full circuit, or walk to near the Lantau Skyrail station, looping along the southern slope of the mountain or (longer) heading along the north slopes.

I walked the southern slope in spring: pleasant, with grand views over Ngong Ping including the Big Buddha. Just tried the northern loop, which though longer is more interesting, with views over hills, Tung Chung, the airport and channel across to Tsuen Wan. Passes through woods, and close enough to the Lantau Skyrail that can hear babble from cable cars passing above.

Lantau surprises

Lantau is at the mouth of the Pearl River, a location reflected in the identities of those just visible urban areas: Hong Kong Island to the east, Macau across the Pearl River to the west, and Shenzhen in mainland China to the north. Viewed from Ling Wui Shan, Lantau appears completely free from urbanisation, without even towns or villages. Nearby are waterfalls in steep ravines, a temple tucked into a wooded hillside, and even a Chinese style landscaped garden that's reached only by hiking. Walking here when the sky is intense blue, it's easy to agree with Financial Secretary Henry Tang's description of Lantau as, "Hong Kong's biggest and most beautiful island."

Tai O

Arriving at Tai O (大澳), the village on the west coast of Lantau that has been fancifully dubbed the "Venice of Hong Kong", we're expecting to just stroll along through the housing clustered by creeks, then by the mangroves just to the south.

But at the bus stop, there's a lady standing by a map board showing the route of motor boar rides, encouraging us to go for a trip. It costs just HK$20 for a 25-minute ride, which includes a spot of dolphin watching as well as cruising along creeks past stilt houses.

Well, that sounds like fun - so I hand over the money, we clamber into the boat, by fishing boats with Little Egret watching for small fish, the boat soon fills up, and we're off, speeding out into the mouth of the Pearl River.

Lantau Trail stage4

Though Nong Ping can fairly swarm with tourists, clambering up steps to the Big Buddha and roaming through Po Lin Monastery and along a path through the Tea Gardens, there is tranquillity to enjoy close by, including along the Lantau Trail.

Chi Ma Wan Pui O

There's a pleasant stroll from Chi Ma Wan (芝麻灣) pier (most easily reached by inter-island ferry connecting Cheung Chau, Mui Wo and Peng Chau; also by path from Mui Wo), southeast Lantau, to Pui O (貝澳).

You start by walking past the prison at Chi Ma Wan, uphill, and then right, along narrow Chi Ma Wan Road (usually quiet). There are trees by the path, a few houses alongside, and the path curls round to the left, to a broad valley opening to the sea. Here, a tidal creek meanders through long abandoned fields with scrub and damp patches - where feral water buffalo roam.

Hiking southwest Lantau

Lantau Island's southwest peninsula attracts rather few hikers, yet boasts some of the finest hiking and scenery in Hong Kong, as well as some offbeat attractions including a landscaped garden and a flying dragon statue (there are also an old fort and a stone circle on the coast, but here I focus on the interior of the peninsula).

Walking in the hills, you can make a fine near-circuit, at least partly following the Lantau Trail. Mostly, the route makes for easy walking, but there are occasional steep climbs and ascents.

 

Ng Yuen (龍仔悟園) Lantau

Lung Tsai Ng Yuen (龍仔悟園) is surely one of the most surprising places in Hong Kong's countryside - a Chinese landscaped garden set in the hills of southwest Lantau Island, accessible only by hiking. I've read that it was developed and planted with ornamental trees by the late Mr Woo Quen-sung (this info from Hong Kong Country Parks, by Stella Thrower). Also known as Ng Yuen Garden, it's within the Man Cheung Po SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest).

Though the buildings and zigzag bridge over the carp pond are ageing, Mr Woo's descendants evidently maintain the garden. But, sadly, it's usually closed to the public - though you can enjoy the above view from the dam used to create the pond (signs warn this dam is unsafe; maybe some day it will crumble).

Recently, I was lucky enough to arrive and find the garden was open - so took the chance to wander around, and take photos.

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