The Peak - or Victoria Peak (太平山) - is one of the tourist "musts" in Hong Kong. But often, it seems, people do little but head to the upper Peak Tram station, below and east of the summit, peer at the view (hah! - these days that may mean squinting through smog), and then leave. Which is a pity, because the Peak is a great place for wandering around, for tourists and residents alike.